Today we are talking about the humble kurta and pajama. These don’t get the attention that they deserve, and frankly, they deserve a lot.
I really wasn’t into such attire earlier, but for the past year or so (thank you family weddings!) have come to like it. This happened only after realizing the subtleties of fit and style in Indian clothing that work best for me.
These days, Indo-Western styles are all the rage, giving tough competition even to classic suits. It only speaks to the power of Indian clothing, and the fact that if thoughtfully executed, a traditional outfit can look great.
And of course, just like any other style of clothing, Indian traditional clothes also aren’t complete without shoes. The right pair of shoes will add such a wow-factor to that kurta-pajama pairing that will leave you wondering why you never wore them before
As there are quite some differences between Indian and Western culture, the shoes are different too. So the right shoes to wear with kurta pajama will primarily include Indian footwear like mojris, juttis/nagras, and chappals (slippers). The western formal shoes will work only in the correct setting, with the correct kind of (slim) pajamas and some layering piece over the kurta like a jacket or bandhgala
Before we talk about shoes though, let’s discuss the kurta and pajama themselves. In my opinion, the different variations of kurtas aren’t a huge deciding factor for the shoes you choose to wear. The only exception here is if you’re wearing a jodhpuri suit, in which case you should almost always go for loafers or other formal shoes.
The pajamas, however, are of different kinds – and their shape and cut will decide the shoes you can wear with them. So, it is important to know about these types first.
Various Styles of Traditional Pajamas:
Disclaimer: If you google some of these, you *will* find pictures of women wearing them. But don’t you worry, I promise men can wear them too 🙂
In fact, I have most of these in my closet. The trick is to have them in muted or neutral shades so that they work with whatever you’re wearing up top.
Straight-cut Pajamas
Nothing fancy here – just a looser and lighter version of straight cut trousers that we are all too familiar with
You can decide the fit of these pajamas according to your comfort, but I’d suggest you not to go too much on the slim side. That way it will work with your regular kurta, but also be appropriate for those times when you’d like to mix it up and Indo-Westernize your outfit.
These straight-cut pajamas, like most others that we’ll discuss below, have a drawstring around the waist for fastening. Called a Nada, the idea behind it is to have the waist of the pajamas much larger than your actual waist size – so that you can then use the drawstring to fasten them around the waist as tight or loose as you like.
Certain or dressy variations of the straight cut pajama also come with pockets, and pant buckles instead of the drawstring waist.
Salwar
Consider salwar to be a roomier version of the straight cut pajamas.
Salwar, or Shalwar (so tricky to write this in English ;D) is baggy and loose from top to bottom, bunching slightly at the ankles. Because of all the extra room at the thighs, it is very comfortable
Women in India usually wear the salwar with a kameez, which is a long tunic with the sides left open below the waist for comfort.
For men salwar pairs very well with pathani suits, which is also like a long loosely fitted kurta
Peshawari Salwar
The Peshawar Salwar is a type of salwar that originated in Peshawar, Pakistan
Like the regular salwar, Patiala is also roomy – but it looks flared at the thighs and narrows at the bottom.
The waist has a drawstring and pleats of cloth are carefully stitched together to meet at the bottom, thus giving the Patiala its distinctive flared look.
Because of the way it’s stitched, these salwars require more material than the regular salwars – but the end product looks great.
You wouldn’t find men commonly using Peshawaris as daily wear. Instead they are reserved for special family occasions and weddings
Churidar
Churidar are peculiar type of close-fitting pajamas.
They start off at the waist like any another pajama, with some extra inches around and a drawstring to fasten them. From the knee to the ankle, however, churidar pajamas narrow very quickly, hugging the skin close to reveal the curves of the leg
Because of the fit, the churidar pajamas need to have a little bit of stretch to them for comfort.
The length of these pajamas is also kept longer than the leg so that when worn the excess material folds and bunches up at the ankles. When it comes to dress pants or even casual pants, bunching of fabric is not a good look – but in churidars these actually add to the overall appeal of the pajamas
In fact, they are also named after this very characteristic. The bunched fabric looks like (dar) a number of bracelets or bangles (churi). Bangle-like. Churi-dar. Cool right?
When it comes to pajamas, I think these might be the most commonly worn by men for their traditional outfits. And for good reason: churidars are slim-fitting, look great with any kurta, and also amazing with most of the shoes in the list below
If you can get into them – that is 😉 *hops around trying to fit his leg into the churidar*
Jodhpuri Pants
Jodhpuri Pants are not technically pajamas, but I still mentioned them here because they do work with dressy traditional outfits. So for the sake of this post, let’s consider them in the broader category of pajamas, shall we?
These have a flared look at the hip, with a churidar-like close fit below the knees. Jodhpurs were adapted for horse-riding and so the excess material (causing the flared look) around the hips and thighs allowed easy movement while riding
These days, jodhpuri suits are a style in itself. They consist of jodhpuri pants along with suit like jackets without the lapel collars (called bandhgalas).
These are best worn with dressier shoes like formal loafers or other laced formal shoes
7 Types Of Shoes To Wear With Kurta Pajama
We’ll now go over 7 shoe styles that you can wear with Indian traditional kurta – pajama, going from Indian to Western
#1: Mojri
Think of Mojri and the image of a man doing the Punjabi dance Bhangra pops up. These shoes are inherently Punjabi, and an old school Indian classic.
Mojri is the shoe of choice for most Indian grooms on their wedding day. These shoes are said to have originated from the Mughals and worn by the royalty – who preferred to wear fancy looking shoes with bright gems and colours.
The distinctive characteristic of the mojri is the extended curled toe with the M shaped front. In my research, I found that traditionally mojris are open from the back. But most of the mojri shoes I’ve seen in the market these days are closed from the back – so I think it must be a design change that happened over time.
Indian wedding attire is all about royal looking clothing, and the Mojri with its bright patterns and embroidery lives up to this vibe. Be it neutral light shades or bold colours and patterns, if you’re looking for a particular type of mojri to match with your wedding sherwani – you’ll find it.
Mojris look the best with churidar pajamas which are slim and narrow. These shoes are meant to be worn without the socks and will generally be breathable and comfortable. If you just do not want to be sockless, go for no-show or loafer socks. Such socks are meant to be for loafers and since mojris have a somewhat similar aesthetic they will meet your needs.
But sometimes, even no-show socks will show with mojris if the design has open sides. Be mindful of that while buying your mojris.
Pajama Choices: Perfect for churidars and peshawaris
#2: Jutti / Nagras
After Mojri, let’s talk about its close relative – the Jutti / Nagra
Where Mojri shoes have the curled-up toes, Juttis have round toes with a closed back.
Juttis (or Nagras) were originally worn by women in North India, but over time the lines have blurred and now there are styles that are worn by men as well.
The looks have undergone a change too. I increasingly see juttis being made to appear modern – with its smooth leather, loafer-like shape, and limited embroidery if any
Both Juttis and Mojris will have flat soles or a very thin heel.
If you’re looking at something with a very distinct heel, then those might be an ethnic variation of loafers
Pajama Choices: These are another alternative to wear with churidar pajamas. If the toe shape of the Mojris bothers you (like it bothers me), these are for you.
They can also be worn with salwar and peshawaris, and in some cases (the modern juttis) with straight-cut pajamas too
#3: Kolhapuri Chappals
Slippers are called Chappals in Hindi. And Kolhapuri Chappals are smart T-strap slippers that are made out of leather and tanned with vegetable dyes
Although I’d never advise you to wear slippers outside the house, these ones are different. Kolhapuri Chappals, or Kolhapuris as they are commonly called, are meant-to-be with Indian ethnic wear and look great with a kurta pajama.
The name might make you think that only the chappals made in the Kolhapur district of Maharashtra might be genuine Kolhapuris, but that is not true. Instead, there are a handful of districts in both Maharashtra and Karnataka that can call their chappals to be Kolhapuris.
Since Kolhapuri chappals are made out of leather, do not wear them out in the rains.
Pajama Choices: These chappals are versatile enough for all kinds of kurtas and pajamas – be it the dhoti, salwar, peshawari, churidar, jodhpurs, or the normal straight-legged pajamas.
Even traditional jackets like nehru jackets will look good with kolhapuri chappals. Don’t wear Kolhapuri chappals with Jodhpuri pants, though 🙂
#4: Ethnic Sandals
While your regular sandals might go with some traditional wear, ethnic sandals are a better choice
These are generally made out of leather and will be close toed (unlike chappals) with/without straps to fasten them
A lot of interesting and different styles have been coming up in this category – some are even loafer and jutti-esque
If all the shoes discussed above don’t pique your interest, then these might. If not, there’s always more shoes ahead 😉
Pajama Choices: Just like Kolhapuris, you can wear them with all kinds of pajamas (except Jodhpurs)
#5: Loafers
Adding non-Indian shoes to the mix means that you are fusing two different styles, so there are some technicalities that come into picture
Loafers will look good with Indian traditional clothes, but only with the right kind of pajama.
The cut of your pajamas has to be slim and close, just like a straight cut dress pant would be. Only then would it be appropriate to be worn with these shoes. Examples would be the regular straight pyjamas, or even the peshawari pants
Pajama Choices: Churidars, straight-cut pajamas, and jodhpurs.
With churidars, go for ethnic loafers like the ones shown above. As compared to western loafers, these will look more at home with churidars
#6: Monk Strap Loafers
If you think loafers with a kurta and pajama is fancy, this will be fancier
Yes, shoe makers have done the feat of combining the straps from monk shoes with a loafer – enter the monk strap loafer
Consider this when you want to stand out from the crowd. These kind of shoes aren’t mainstream yet, so you have to opportunity to add some great visual interest to your traditional Indian outfit
Pajama Choices: Great way to add a hint of interest to those jodhpuri pants. Monk Strap loafers will look phenomenal paired with a plain kurta and a straight-cut pajama
#7: Formal Shoes
When it comes to formal shoes, the same rules as loafers apply i.e the cut of the pajama should be straight and close to the leg
However, I think formal shoes are only appropriate to be worn with a kurta if there is some kind of jacket involved. A Bandhgala and a Nehru Jacket are both nice options
This is because dress shoes have a very western formal look so it will look out of place if there isn’t any semblance of the same formality theme in your outfit
Note: If you’d like to know more about formal shoes in general, I have written a detailed guide on it. You can find it here
Pajama Choices: Jodhpuri pants and well fitted straight-cut pajamas. Nothing more, nothing less B-)
Shoes To Wear With Kurta And Jeans
Tell me.. you’ve surely thought of throwing over a simple kurta over a pair of jeans before, haven’t you? *smirks*
Because jeans and kurta are such a common combination, I thought it would be good to mention them in this article. Basically, all the shoes that you can wear with jeans in general, can be worn with the kurta on top.
Some of these include
- Monkstraps
- Loafers
- Wingtip Derbys
I’d stay away from casual shoes like sneakers or boat shoes if wearing a kurta
Also, if it’s an occasion where you would have to take off your shoes, then laced dress shoes will be a hassle. In that regard, ethnic loafers, ethnic sandals, and even kolhapuri chappals would be great shoes to wear with a kurta and jeans
Pajama Pyjama
^ Which spelling do you use? I was confused throughout, then picked one (OK Google) and just went with it (Also, me needs those organic traffic, after all 😛 )
Anyway, you’ve just read about seven different shoe options that can be worn with a kurta pajama – there’s got to be one or more that you end up wearing the most.
Drop a comment and let me know your favourites. Or if there is another style of awesome shoes that I missed here, you can share that too. I’ll be looking forward to hear from you 🙂
